Being in a broken-down rig just isn't fun. Neither is the unexpected thrill of a scary ride because a part on your vehicle failed-be it steering, brakes, or some other vital automotive component.
4WD vehicles are designed to be rugged from the factory, but they may not have been designed for the extremes that we put them through. We sometimes use our vehicles hard and push them to and beyond their limits. Yet, there's nothing more disappointing as having your ride break down in the middle of nowhere without the proper tools or parts to repair it. However, a good number of off-road breakdowns might be avoided if you inspect your vehicle prior to leaving the pavement. Spotting a part that may have been damaged on a previous outing gives you the opportunity to repair or replace it before it fails at a most inopportune moment.
1. Hard trail or off-road...
1. Hard trail or off-road use can bend or otherwise damage suspension and steering components. Luckily, this front suspension track bar failed at low speed on the trail, but had it snapped while at higher speeds, the results might have been a harrowing and potentially dangerous experience.
It's also a good idea to perform a quick check of your vehicle just before returning to the paved road. Steering, suspension or driveline parts that seemed to function fine in the dirt may not perform adequately at highway speeds. Bent or broken components could spell danger on the road, posing a safety and legal issue. Failure of vital components while traveling at 65 mph down the highway could just ruin your day and that of others.
If you trailer a dirt-only rig, it's also important to perform periodic inspections. Ironically, since you don't drive a dirt-only rig daily, problems may not be as readily detected as those in a vehicle that you use for your daily commute.
In any case, awareness of your vehicle condition can pay off and save you some heartache dealing with a breakdown or the risk of injury. Here are some common areas to inspect - coming or going from your favorite dirt playground, along with more detailed items to eyeball when you're concentrating on more meticulous garage maintenance.
 2. Front wheel bearings should...  2. Front wheel bearings should be checked periodically. Jack up each front tire until it is off the ground, grip it firmly, and pull it back and forth to check for any wheel bearing play. You can also spin the tires to listen for any noise that might signal a pending bearing failure or some issue with the brake pads dragging on the caliper that might hint at a sticky brake piston. |  3. Knuckle or spindle ball...  3. Knuckle or spindle ball joints or kingpins will wear over time, and that wear is accelerated with the use of larger, heavier tires and hard off-road use. These pivot points can also be checked at the same time you check for wheel bearing play. If you find play in the front axle or suspension, you'll have to look a little closer to determine exactly where the wear exists. |  4. Steering axle U-joints...  4. Steering axle U-joints wear as well. Some joints are greasable and some are not. Worn U-joints can result in failure when under stress. When one goes, the break may also cause irreparable damage to the axle yokes. Sometimes, loss of a circlip can cause the joint to start to come apart as well. On IFS vehicles, CV joints usually retain their grease well, just be vigilant that the rubber boots do not tear and allow dirt to enter the joint area. |
 5. Hubs should be inspected...  5. Hubs should be inspected from time to time to make sure the 4WD system is engaging properly. We've seen far too many instances in which simple problems put a 4WD with a problematic drive axle out of action. Hubs, axle-connect systems, and transfer cases should all be checked as needed. This hub may have been cracked for some time, and it finally broke on the trail. |  6. Bigger tires mean more...  6. Bigger tires mean more steering stress, and with power steering assist, we have the ability to push a lot of force through a steering box. That condition places ever greater stress on the frame where the box is mounted and on the mounting hardware. It's a good idea to periodically check that the steering box bolts are tight and that there is no sign of frame cracking where the box mounts. |  7. Our editor knows what it's...  7. Our editor knows what it's like to be out wheeling and left stranded with a broken steering box sector shaft. As we mentioned, big tires mean greater stress. While it's not a certain bet you can always find cracked or failing components before they break, it's prudent to examine these parts for signs of bends or clues that they might be ending their useful life. |
 8. In fact, here's a picture...  8. In fact, here's a picture of that steering box and leftover portion of sector shaft. Notice that there is rust on half of the broken face of the sector shaft. That rust had developed over time, telling us that this sector shaft had been halfway broken for a while and it was just a matter of time before it let go. Luckily, this broke at very low speeds. |  9. U-bolts may loosen over...  9. U-bolts may loosen over time. A quick check for tightness before hitting the dirt could save headaches caused by loose or broken U-bolts. After installing a new lift or U-bolts, retighten the bolts after a short drive. You will almost certainly find the components have settled in a bit and the bolt tension is less than needed. |  10. Leaf springs can work...  10. Leaf springs can work loose in the pack and shift in the U-bolts if not clamped well. Springs should be checked to ensure that the leaves do not get too far out of alignment. Severe axle wrap can warp spring packs and may kink a leaf or two. Watch that these don't develop into a fracture point, resulting in the leaf breaking. Incidentally, we like to carry a couple of short U-bolts that can often be used to splint a leaf pack back together to get you back home should a leaf snap. |
 11. Hard on your suspension?...  11. Hard on your suspension? It would pay to climb under your rig and look over the condition of the various pieces from time to time. A broken bumpstop such as this might allow your axle to travel too far upward, causing expensive damage when metal meets metal. Some mindful troubleshooting is always useful when parts fail. For instance, is this failure simply due to age and use, or is there a fundamental design issue with your setup that needs to be addressed to avoid more failures in the future? |  12. If you have a linked suspension...  12. If you have a linked suspension with rod ends, then you'll want to periodically inspect them for wear or damage. Rod ends are a wear-item and, as such, need to be replaced when they start to loosen and develop play between the spherical ball and the body. Some have the ability to be greased or rebuilt. The body should be checked for fractures and for excessive bending at the threaded shank. |  13. Brake lines are the conduit...  13. Brake lines are the conduit for the fluid that helps you stop. When a line breaks, you lose braking power to one wheel and this is not a predicament you hope to encounter unexpectedly. We've seen plenty of times when wheelers have lifted their rig only to be left with brake lines that are too short. Brake lines may become stressed and fatigued from overextension and close to failure. Rocks kicked up can nick lines and weaken them. Stainless braided lines need to be watched and should be protected with an outer sheath. If the stainless sheath splits open or rubs through, the inside Teflon hose may burst from braking line pressure. |