There are two things that I distinctly remember my dad teaching me how to do: changing the oil and performing a brake job. There weren't too many things cooler for a young boy than sitting next to him, handing him tools and soaking up the info on how to work on cars and trucks.
I prefer to have someone else change the engine oil now, but I still do my own brake jobs. For less than $50 at your local parts store and an afternoon, you keep a pair of drum brakes up to par. While drum brakes are going the way of the dodo bird, we thought it might be handy to show you how to replace the brake shoes and hardware in a drum brake system.
We chose a rear Dana 60 for this article. This full-floating axle is one of the most difficult to service drum brakes on because the axleshaft must be unbolted and removed, then the drum actually rides on bearings on a spindle, supporting the weight of the vehicle. You may want to replace the seals and wheel bearings while you're there, but we're only showing the brakes in this article. You have to disassemble all of this just to get the brakes. Even so, this is one of the maintenance items you can do on just about any 4x4. And maybe you can even share the time and knowledge with a future generation.
 We're using a '70 Ford F-250...  We're using a '70 Ford F-250 for this article. The full-float rear axle is one of the most challenging to do a drum brake job on. Secure the vehicle safely on jack stands and remove the tires. Unbolt the axleshafts and slide them out. Oil will drip out of the axle tube so put something down to protect the floor. |  The drums are held on with...  The drums are held on with two spindle nuts and a lock ring sandwiched between them. Our Dana 60 required a 2.5-inch spindle nut socket. You can purchase these from a specialty tool store. The lock ring has tabs that are bent down over the flat edges of the nut, as well as a key that fits in a groove on the spindle. Remove the first nut then use a screwdriver to straighten the tabs on the lock ring. Remove the ring and the second nut. The wheel bearing will slide out as you move the drum off the spindle. |  You may need to whack the...  You may need to whack the drum with a plastic mallet to release pressure from the brake shoes. If the drum is really stuck on the shoes, there is a plug at the center, bottom of the backing plate that can be knocked out so you can back off the star wheel with a screwdriver. You should drop the drums off at an auto parts store to have them turned. This machining process removes the grooves and fixes any out-of-round issues that may have developed. |
 There is a short and a long...  There is a short and a long shoe for each side of the vehicle. The longer shoe faces the rear of the vehicle. Before you remove the old shoes, compare the new ones to make sure that they are correct. There are multiple sizes of brakes that were available, especially with older vehicles. |  A lot of guys have their own...  A lot of guys have their own favorite trick for removing the old brake shoes. We pull the bottom of the shoes away from each other and remove the star-wheel adjuster. Once it's out, you can move the shoes around to unhook the springs that hold them to the backing plate. Semi-float axles often use coil springs with a twist lock. These can be released with needlenose pliers, and there is a specialty tool that makes it much easier. |  With the shoes removed, use...  With the shoes removed, use brake cleaner and a rag to clean the backing plate. Check for signs of fluid leaks from the wheel cylinder. If you find a leak, the wheel cylinder should be replaced. In most applications, there are four contact areas where the shoes rub on the backing plate. These locations usually have a texture. Put a bit of brake grease on these spots before assembly. |
 Because we suspected that...  Because we suspected that our truck had original brake hardware, and we knew that the brakes hadn't been replaced in more than 10 years, we purchased a hardware kit. These are usually less than $5 per side. They come with replacement springs and pins. |  Some brake shoes may have...  Some brake shoes may have additional parts that need to be moved over from the old parts. Ours came with a new pin that needs to be pressed into the shoe. Double check these details before you put the shoes on the truck to save you trouble and time. We used a bench-mounted vice to push this pin into place. |  Getting the shoes on the backing...  Getting the shoes on the backing plate can be quite a challenge. Connect the shoes to each using the upper spring. Install the new pins in the backing plate. Then use a screwdriver to twist the spring and needlenose pliers to bring the pin over to connect with the spring. This can take quite a few attempts. Make sure that the brake cylinder plunging rods are properly engaged in the shoes or you'll have to redo this step. |
 The star-wheel adjuster usually...  The star-wheel adjuster usually frustrates people. Take a picture of the system before you remove it if needed, or do one side at a time and use the other side as a guide. The star-wheel is how the shoes self-adjust. Thread it nearly all the way together before installing with new shoes. The lock tab rests against the star and lets it rotate only one way. |  Give everything a thorough...  Give everything a thorough look before sliding the freshly turned brake drums on. We try to adjust the shoes until the drums have resistance going over the shoes, and then backing off slightly. Install the drums and wheel bearings. Tighten the first spindle nut to 50 lb-ft and then back it off a third of a turn. Install the lock ring and then torque the second nut to 100 lb-ft. Make sure the drums rotates smoothly, and there is no play in the wheel bearings. Install the axleshafts and tires, then check the brake fluid before heading out for a drive. | |