2003 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 - The Blackbird

The Sway-A-Way system for the rear suspension is dirt-simple to install. The coils have a 10 percent stiffer rate compared to stock for added control and yield a two-inch lift. The shocks are configured to match the added ride height that the springs provide.

Who needs a shop when you've got a driveway? The Total Chaos long-travel kit can be (and was) installed at home, but the included instructions need to be carefully followed no matter where you're working. If you don't have the tools, the time, or the experience to tackle this installation yourself, Total Chaos can recommend a qualified installer.

Installation instructions are included with the T.C. kit, so we'll just hit a few highlights. Here, the upper and lower control arms have already been installed, as have the shocks, the 4x4 axle shafts, and the limit straps. Make sure to install the lower uniball conversion adapter as shown here, with the knuckle bolt holes to the outside. You'll need a 5/8-inch hex key and a 1-1/8-inch thin-wall socket to tighten the bolt. You cannot access the top side of the bolt once the axle shaft is installed. After the uniball conversion adapter is bolted to the lower control arm, feed the outer CV shaft through the bore in the knuckle, and then attach the knuckle to the upper and lower control arms.

Paint must be completely removed from the areas of the knuckle that will be welded when installing the gusset. Toyota uses really good paint, which makes it a time-consuming task to remove, but it's mandatory to start with bare, clean metal to get a strong weld.

There's about two and a half feet of welding per gusset. Welding it all in one continuous pass will overheat and warp the knuckle. Instead, take it easy and do a little at a time to allow the knuckle some cooling between welds. The gussets can be MIG or TIG welded, the latter of which was done here.

The instructions for installing the extended axle shafts start out with a warning: "This procedure is VERY difficult. DO NOT ATTEMPT if you don't have decent automotive mechanical knowledge, proper tools or you don't pay attention to details..." Every syllable of every word in that caveat is true. Here, the process is nearly complete as the last few CV balls are tapped home inside their respective grooves. Among other things, you'll need a chop saw, a brass punch, safety glasses, and snap ring pliers when attempting this procedure. It's possible to re-use the CV boots and even the CV grease, but it's ideal to purchase a factory-new CV boot kit from your local Toyota dealer. The Toyota CV boot kit includes fresh grease and factory-style CV band clamps. The factory CV band clamps proved troublesome; it's better and easier to use the T.C.-supplied hose clamps.

The T.C. tie rod extensions are cleanly built and include generous wrench flats for easy installation. If you'd like to kick the steering strength up a notch, go for T.C.'s optional heim-joint tie rod system.

You can mount the shock reservoirs in front or behind the coilover tower. T. C. supplies the weld-on reservoir clamps and lets you take it from there. Whatever the chosen location, the reservoir and the hose must clear all moving suspension and drive train parts throughout the steering and suspension travel ranges. In other words: full droop to full bump and lock-to-lock.

D'oh! I welded the limit strap clevis mount too far down on the frame rail and had to find a shorter limit strap to make up the difference. Twelve-inch limit straps are included in the Total Chaos long travel kit. I now needed 11 inchers, which McKenzie's Performance Products had in stock. The limit strap clevis mount should be welded close to the top of the frame's vertical face. Limit strap adjustment is important because the limit strap protects the shocks' internals and protects the uniball spacers and mounting bolts from over-extension damage. The clevis is adjustable to compensate for stretching, but the adjustment range is only so big.

As mentioned, this same Sway-A-Way coil and shock system was used on the '03 4Runner I tested for 4 Wheel Drive and Sport Utility Magazine. The control was impressive and the overall ride quality pleasant, but it lacked a bit of cush on smaller stutters. Between then and now, S.A.W. has fine-tuned the shock valving to add the plush factor. These updated shocks are much smoother. The coils provide a two-inch lift and have a rate that's ten percent stiffer than stock. Both the shocks and the coil springs mount in the stock locations using the stock mounting methods. The 4Runner's gas tank crowds the upper suspension links and limits droop travel, so getting the rear suspension to work well is a matter of tuning what's available instead of going for big-inch suspension travel.

After an aftermarket suspension is in place, many truck owners face blank stares at standard-issue alignment shops. If this happens to you, look for an alignment shop that specializes in commercial trucks. We've taken several modified vehicles to the Daniel's Tire commercial truck shop in Santa Fe Springs, California, and Dave has aligned them all.

At this point, the `Runner's T.C. long-travel front end was in place and had been aligned. The fenders and front bumper were next.

There wasn't enough time to build a custom bumper, so the next best thing was to trim the stock bumper cover with a cutoff wheel.

Thirty-three inch tires work very well with this setup. The rear tires barely kiss the body at full articulation and the fronts have plenty of room thanks to Fiberwerx fenders, a trimmed bumper cover, and a flattened body seam.....

.....Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ's roll smoothly on the pavement with little noise, and also worked very well over our photo shoot terrain, which was a mix of hardpack, fine dust, and rocks. Dick Cepek DC-1 wheels are built with clearance for today's larger brake calipers and are air sensor friendly. Polished aluminum has a timeless appeal.

Fiberwerx fenders are available in a white or a black gel coat. I blew it and neglected to ask for the black gel coat. Oh well, I was going to get them painted anyway. I've temporarily joined the ranks of `those guys with white fenders.' The fenders are protected on the back side with a coating of Durabak, detailed elsewhere in this issue.

Even though Fiberwerx includes stock-style mounting flanges with its fenders, I decided to bypass them for something more durable. I built a tubular structure that bolts to the door hinges and the fender well, and hung the fenders from that using a slick little panel mount from Autofab. The Autofab panel mount consists of a urethane grommet, a flush-mount bolt with a nylock nut, and a weldable steel tab which can be cut or bent as needed......

......In this photo, three tabs are in place (circles) but two more will be added next to the door hinges and one will be added under the headlight. I temporarily bolted the bottom of the fender to the stock mount at the rocker panel. Even without the full set of Autofab panel mounts in place, the fenders don't rattle or make any noise. Note the flattened body seam at the firewall (arrow). This seam will rub if not flattened with a BFH (big freakin' hammer). Don't cut the seam off; it's home to a pinch weld and needs to be retained for structural integrity.