We didn't have a cam handle,...
We didn't have a cam handle, so we simply mounted the camshaft gear on the cam by snugly tightening 2 out of the 3 supplied bolts. Making sure to use cam & lifter break-in lube, lube up the first four lobes of the camshaft. Install the cam up to that point, lube up the next four lobes, and repeat. Only lubing four lobes at a time allows you to better handle more of the camshaft for added stability. This is important, as you need to be very careful to not damage the soft bearings with the hard lobes of the cam. Remember to lube up the tappet face with the break-in lube before installing.
Comp also suggested some parts for us. On a flat tappet cam, there are tapers that hold the cam in place, while the lobes of roller cams are ground flat. In order to stop the cam from moving, or "walking", back and forth in the block, a cam button, also called a cam thrust bumper, is needed. The bumper, usually made of nylon or steel, rides between the end of the cam and the timing chain cover. To hold the button in place, we needed a thrust plate, which bolts the timing gear to the camshaft. It is important that the cam not move, yet still have a very small amount of clearance.
The best advice we can offer you is to research before you build. Write down all your concerns and questions, and then talk to all the experts you can. Comp Cams and Dart Machinery have put countless hours into R&D. They know combinations that work well together, and can usually give you great advice on whatever you have in mind. Just don't call Dart looking for advice on those Brand-X heads you have lying in your garage.
Finally, don't overestimate your power capabilities or needs. It is usually better to slightly underestimate it for things such as intake runner and chamber volumes. Don't think that you can just buy an aggressive cam, the heads with a 72cc chamber and 230cc intake runners, slap it together, and produce lots power. Remember, all of the parts work together to produce power, so it only makes sense to match the needs of one part to the next.
 While you can sometimes get...  While you can sometimes get around a lack of tools, having the right tools for the job helps keep parts, and knuckles, undamaged. We picked up this Proform Harmonic Balancer Puller/Installer. It is important to use a 3-bolt puller like this on the vibration damper. The 'jaw'-type pullers that grab the outer ring of the balancer can pull the ring right off the damper. This tool also ensures a quick and accurate installation upon reassembly. |  Comp recommends replacing...  Comp recommends replacing the timing chain when swapping the cam. Here you can see the crankshaft timing gear of the new Comp Cam set. The three slots allow you to install the gear with an advance or retard of 4 degrees or none at all. We didn't know enough about how all the new parts would perform in conjunction with our stock block and bottom end, so we choose to install the crank gear without any advance or retard. |  We knew the Dart Pro 1 Platinum...  We knew the Dart Pro 1 Platinum heads required a .100 longer pushrod, but with the Comp Cams hydraulic roller lifters and 1.52:1 roller tip rockers, we were unsure what length pushrods to run. The best method is to use an adjustable pushrod length checker like the Comp Cams(#7702) one seen in the middle. |
 To determine the correct pushrod...  To determine the correct pushrod length using the Comp Cams #7702, we estimated the length needed, bolted down the rocker arm, and set it at zero lash. A correct length pushrod will keep the tip of the rocker in the center of the valve stem tip, throughout its range of travel. We used a permanent pen to mark the valve stem tip, turned the crank, and looked at the contact path. |  In this shot, you see the...  In this shot, you see the white Comp Cams cam button (#202) and black locking plate(#4605), installed on the cam gear. Make sure your cover is thick enough to handle the thrusting forces that the cam places on the button. Many of the stock cover will be to flimsy to handle these loads, and will simply bend. High-end covers even have an adjustable thrust plate built in. |  The Fel-Pro timing cover gasket...  The Fel-Pro timing cover gasket kit came with rubber seals for between the manifold and the valley rails. If you want to use this gasket, place a small amount of RTV high performance silicone at the ends of the gasket where the edge of the heads and valley rails touch the intake manifold. If you are comfortable with it, the preferred method is to lay a bead of silicone along the valley rails. Try and lay the silicone in one continuous, smooth, triangular bead. |
 Remember to get the correct...  Remember to get the correct sealants and lubricants. Also remember to purchase a break-in oil or non-synthetic motor oil to break in the engine. Completely change the oil and filter after 2,000 to 2,500 miles. |  Lack of time may force you...  Lack of time may force you to assemble the engine in an unorthodox order. While waiting for the pushrods, and listening to the boss yell something about timelines, we had to mount the intake manifold on the heads before sliding the pushrods into the hydraulic lifters. The manifold now covered the lifter holes in the valley area, and with the engine still in the truck, the brake booster and heater core blocked our line of sight down the pushrod guide holes. We used a mirror and flashlight to ensure the pushrods were seated properly. |  Dart recommends using Fel-Pro...  Dart recommends using Fel-Pro gaskets. Exact gasket numbers can be found on their website or in their instructions. For high performance motors with a large compression ratio, Dart suggests Multi Layered Steel gaskets. Fel-Pro's MLS gaskets are extremely strong, but should only be used when you have two perfectly machined surfaces, like with a brand new block and heads. |