Four-wheeling and off-road recreation often include toting a lot of gear and trailering. Competition race vehicles, "trailer queen" 4x4s, several quads, or a family's bevy of dirt bikes can also require a trailer. Sooner or later, a car hauler, toy hauler, or quad or motorcycle trailer becomes a necessity. If you plan to trailer, the proper equipment and safe tie-down practices will ensure your safety.
1. Our open car-hauling trailer has proven versatile and safer than flat towing. One accessory that makes loading and unloading easy is the Warn Works 4700 utility winch. This package offers a single line-pull rating (first layer of spooled wire) of 4,700 pounds, using a 12V DC motor boasting 1.9 hp with both dynamic and mechanical braking. The gear ratio is 216:1 for optimal control. | 
2. Warn recommends a 3/16-inch flat-steel deck-mounting approach. Our trailer has a wooden deck, so I chose to fabricate a hitch-type receiver that would work with Warn's receiver mounting plate accessory. At the front of the trailer, I constructed this heavily braced receiver bracket that supports the winch and mounting plate. The winch mounting plate fits the Type-3 receiver and attaches with a Type-3 mount pin and clip (always follow Warn's safety and installation instructions). | 
3. Installation of a trailer battery ensures adequate current whether the tow vehicle is available or not. Using the 6-gauge cables supplied, I installed a battery box and battery-disconnect plug to allow removal of the winch unit when not in use. A convolution sleeve, solder connections, and wiring to the tow vehicle's seven-pin charge wire ensure that the battery will charge en route and work reliably. |
For toting four-wheel vehicles, I much prefer trailering to "flat towing." Anyone who has ever flat-towed a short-wheelbase Jeep, FJ40, or Bronco knows the perils of trying to back up the towed vehicle in a parking lot or gas station. Even worse is the risk of the towed vehicle's front wheels turning in the opposite direction while negotiating a tight turn. Tying the steering wheel to limit range of motion is a stopgap fix, but the load on the steering gear and tires of the towed vehicle remains a constant issue. Additionally, the flat-towed 4x4 seldom has a provision for brakes, so the tow vehicle must stop both rolling masses. This can not only overload the tow vehicle's braking capacity, it can even lead to the towed vehicle whipping or jackknifing dangerously.
4. Like other Warn winches, the Warn Works package has an optional field kit that features handy devices for utility work. Although smaller in size, this winch is a bona fide workhorse! Warn actually recommends its Warn Works 3700 (3700-pound capacity) winch for most loading requirements. | 
5. Ready to begin loading the trailer, I measured the rear bumper height of the truck. For trailering stability and control with a vehicle on board, I always use a load distribution (equalizing) hitch system. These two torsion arms, when adjusted properly, will keep the tow vehicle level and utilize both the tow vehicle and trailer springs to reduce the effects of irregular pavement. | 
6. Note the special receiver hitch assembly for a load distribution/equalizing hitch system. The solid-block steel receiver fits the tow vehicle' platform hitch (2-inches square). At the lower section of the hitch are two sockets that accept the torsion bars. When tensioned, the bars will provide a force to keep the tow vehicle and trailer frames as level as possible. A sway-control friction brake is optional but recommended for additional resistance to side-sway. The heavy-duty trailer ball' diameter is 2-5/16 inches. |
Each of these issues can be avoided by using a car-hauling trailer. The properly equipped trailer should have tandem axles with brakes at each axle (four wheels). Controlled properly, these brakes actuate by way of either a modern electronic brake controller or a correctly adjusted hydraulic surge brake master cylinder (usually mounted to the trailer's hitch mechanism). The advantages of using a trailer include an independent brake system, the ability to back the trailer up, and in the worst case, a means for getting a broken-down vehicle home safely without risk of further damage. Furthermore, trailering eliminates highway wear and higher fuel consumption for a trail-use-only vehicle.
7. There should be no shortage of rated chains, straps, and tie-downs. I also use axlehousing wraps with protective sleeves. Ratcheting straps can provide the pull necessary to secure the trailered vehicle. Always use straps and chains that offer substantially higher load capacity than the trailered vehicle's weight. | 
8. The 12-foot remote control will be familiar to Warn winch users. This controller enables one-person loading as depicted here. I can stand safely out of harm's way while carefully guiding and working the vehicle onto the trailer. At several points, with the winch's brake capacity, I stopped and simply steered the front wheels to keep the vehicle moving straight. Retrieval speed is slow and precise, ideal for this kind of work. | 
9. Hooking up to the front bumper with a safety axlewrap strap, I applied force cautiously. The bumper height proved right for starting the vehicle from ground level. Do not pull on a bumper unless you know its strength, load capacity, and the grade of the attaching hardware. If you have doubts about the bumper's strength, use factory-rated towhook points at the frame. |
A car-hauling trailer does not have to be expensive. For nearly a dozen years now, our family's utility car-hauling trailer has provided a safe, reliable means for moving vehicles and loads as well. The trailer has a wooden deck which, despite the spare appearance and limited weather resistance, has served well. With a load capacity of 7,000 pounds gross (trailer empty weighs approximately 1,400 pounds), this trailer will safely haul and stop with a 5,000-pound vehicle or load on board.
10. Once on the trailer deck, the vehicle rolls easily. The winch load is minor and simply keeps the vehicle in position. Keep the trailer as level as possible or tilted slightly rearward to avoid having the loaded vehicle roll forward with speed. Take your time and use the equipment instead of brute force. This vehicle was on the deck and ready to tie down in less than 10 minutes. | 
11. Pull the vehicle to the tie-down point (if you load one vehicle regularly, consider properly rated tie-down rings, installed properly to a strong metal deck). Use caution to make sure the tongue (hitch ball) load is correct. If too heavy, the rear springs of the tow vehicle will compress too much. Too light a tongue weight, and the trailer will rock rearward and weave - or possibly go out of control on a curvy road. With a load distribution hitch, I placed slightly more weight than is customary toward the hitch end of the trailer. When I adjust the torsion bars, the tow vehicle will level out. | 
12. I crossed the tie-downs. This front chain arrangement and use of axle straps will ensure fore-aft and lateral stability on the trailer deck. This CJ's axlehousing is very busy and has brake hoses and pipes that make it impractical to use the axle straps at the housing. I opted here for straps at the leaf-spring/frame-anchor ends, avoiding any sharp edges. If you tie at the axlehousing, always avoid the brake hoses, brake tubing, and steering linkage. |
To enable one-person loading and unloading of vehicles, the trailer now features the ideal add-on accessory: the new Warn Works 4700 utility winch. Either an operational winch on your trailered vehicle or a device like Warn's Warn Works 3700 or 4700 winch can make loading and unloading much simpler. Safe, powerful, and slow enough on retrieval, this device works well for car haulers, toy haulers, and general utility work.
13. The same approach applies at the rear. Here, I tied down with ratcheting straps and axle straps placed at the springs' shackle ends. The pull is both rearward and outward, in a cross. By tying in this manner, the vehicle will not "dance" laterally on the deck, nor will it move excessively fore and aft. Always check the tension on these ratchet straps after driving a short distance and then at all stops en route. | 
14. The "what-if" factor always applies to trailering. Here, I used duct tape to close off the hook slots. If, for some reason, enough slack were to develop in a chain, you would want to be sure it will not uncouple. The tape, wire, or use of through-bolts and nuts on doubled-back chain will prevent chain from falling loose. My preference is a hook with a spring clasp, like the rear straps on this operation. | 
15. With the load centered and tied down, I adjusted the distribution hitch's torsion bars. The tension required is just enough to restore the tow vehicle's frame/bumper height. If the trailer load is severe, I may load the rear bumper of the tow vehicle slightly more, lowering the bumper height a bit. Follow the loading instructions and recommendations supplied with the distribution/equalizing hitch system. |
In the steps illustrated, I share the equipment loading/unloading and tie-down methods that make our family excursions practical. Whether you purchase a cost-effective open-deck hauler like the one shown or step up to a fifth-wheel toy hauler with living quarters, trailering can add flexibility and versatility to your four-wheeling lifestyle!
16. With the tow vehicle and trailer now leveled properly, you can see the center (galvanized) safety chain at the front. This is strictly for security, a backup in the event that something should give way. You may want to add additional backup straps. There are no limits when it comes to safety. Try to visualize where this load will go if severe whipping, jackknifing, or panic braking were to occur. Always make sure the trailer's brakes are in top condition and adjusted to work in sync with the tow vehicle's brakes. | 
17. Leveled and ready to roll, the trailer's brake settings should be tested. With an electronic controller, the sensitivity can be varied for different trailer loads. I want the trailer brakes to keep the trailer slowing steadily when the tow vehicle's brakes apply. Too much brake action and the trailer will jerk hard or even lock up its wheels. Too little, and the trailer will want to overrun or "rear steer" the tow vehicle during downhill braking. Also, check the manual mode of the trailer brakes. Measured manual use is helpful for correcting trailer whip or side-sway without applying the tow vehicle's brakes. Inspect and service the trailer's brakes and wheel bearings regularly. | 
18. As the day's travel ends, here is an additional advantage of the winch receiver mount: the ability to remove the assembly when parked overnight. The unit is light enough to stow in the tow vehicle or even take into a motel room. By installing a battery quick-disconnect plug, this operation takes only a minute. I also use a locking-type receiver/mount pin as a theft deterrent. Have fun and tow safely! |