Ford TTB Tricks
I own an '89 Ford Bronco with a 351 Windsor, 35s, and 4.56 ring-and-pinion gears. I'm running Camburg's cut-and-turned Twin-Traction Beam frontend that uses stock-length axleshafts. This frontend works great for rockcrawling, but it's best for bumps and jumps. I recently installed an Auburn E-locker in the Dana 44 TTB frontend. I came across a problem during reassembly: I could not reinstall the passenger-side axle C-clip inside the diff. This reminded me of Project TrialRunner and the issue you had with the C-clip on the Dana 35 front differential. I found the magazine issue and the article - the story took me to the exact same spot as I had got to myself. I checked your website and could not find any more info after that issue. However, through my research, I found a trick to substitute for the C-clip inside the differential. You can install a valvespring inside the slip-yoke on the passenger side of the TTB. The spring tension will retain the stub shaft and slip-yoke inside the differential. Have you tried this trick on Project TrailRunner? If you have, are the results positive?
My first time out in the mud with my new E-locker, I activated the front locker and snapped the female side of the passenger-side slip-yoke. I would like to upgrade my axleshafts for greater strength. I found out that an aftermarket female slip-yoke is not available for the passenger-side axleshaft assembly. I also found out that the other axleshafts in the system are available from the aftermarket. I was quoted $2,500 for a set of chrome-moly axles and $4,500 for billet axles. I have also learned that '80-to-'82 Dana 44 TTB frontends used a bolt-in-style stub shaft on the passenger side and do not use a C-clip inside the differential to retain the passenger-side stub shaft. I have also found out that many of these '80-'82 differentials are available in wrecking yards. Using an '80-'82 differential would eliminate the need for a C-clip inside the differential.
I do not want to snap the female side of the passenger-side slip-yoke. For now, I will swap my '89 differential housing and install an '80-'82 model. I'll probably remove the E-locker and go with a Truetrac instead. I'm hoping for the best. What do you think?
Chad Homick, via e-mail
Chad,After asking around, I believe I may be able to get the clip back in the Dana 35 differential by filing on the outside edges of the C-clip a bit. The same might hold for the C-clip in the Dana 44 TTB differential. I've read about the valvespring trick too but have not tried it. If possible, I would rather have the original clip in the proper location.
I have one of the '80-'82 Dana 44 TTB differentials you mentioned, and yes, there's no C-clip inside the differential. Using one of these early TTB differentials with your '89 housings would be a great way to eliminate the C-clip inside the diff.
I've not personally investigated the aftermarket availability of the female side of the passenger-side TTB slip-yoke, but if they're indeed unavailable in the aftermarket, then the best way to go would be to buy a factory-new part at your local Ford dealer.
Those axleshaft prices seem pretty high. You might call around further to find better prices. Try Currie Enterprises, Alloy USA, Superior Axle & Gear, and West Coast Differentials.
Carry A Fire Extinguisher Or Else
I took this photo of a '92 Jeep that caught on fire on Highway 1 in California near Stinson Beach. The reason for sending it to you is so you may put it in your magazine to let people know the importance of having a fire extinguisher on board. This fire started as a little bit of smoke and then turned into a small fire near the dash, eventually resulting in what you see here! Had the driver had a fire extinguisher, the vehicle could have been saved. He was also lucky to have a turnout to park in, otherwise the fire could have spread into the hills.
Clint Graves, Firefighter, Stinson Beach, California
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